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Mazda Certified Pre-Owned Review

You’ll feel confident with your purchase when buying a Mazda certified pre-owned vehicle. Their 160-point inspection carefully scrutinizes and tests every major and minor component in each car before it earns the ‘certified pre-owned’ designation.

We’re about to go over the warranty that comes along with buying a Mazda CPO, along with talking about what that warranty covers, and then looking at the inspection process itself. We’ll also take a look at what else comes with a Mazda certified pre-owned vehicle. If this is your first time buying a car, we also suggest learning a few car buying tips to help you out.

TLDR; Mazda’s certified pre-owned program is pretty standard, which is a good thing. There are no surprises. Each car receives a thorough inspection and is then covered by a good warranty. The only part we don’t like is that the powertrain warranty begins when the vehicle is first sold, not when you buy it. Other than that, we like the Mazda certified pre-owned program.

Mazda’s Certified Pre-Owned Warranty Information

After a vehicle has completed the inspection process and passed with flying colors, it is then sold with a Mazda certified pre-owned warranty. That warranty will cover any manufacturer defects that arise, with no deductible on repairs (provided you go to a Mazda dealership).

What does Mazda’s Certified Pre-Owned Warranty Cover?

Mazda has a somewhat average, yet still useful, certified pre-owned warranty. Their CPO warranty comes in two parts and covers:

CPO Vehicle Limited Warranty

  • Valid for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first
  • Average warranty length for a certified pre-owned car
  • Covers the interior and exterior, as long as the issue is related to a manufacturer defect

Limited Powertrain Warranty

  • Valid for seven years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first
  • Covers engine, drivetrain, and transmission issues
  • Timeframe starts from the original sale date

Please be aware that these warranties don’t mean that every issue you encounter will be covered. For one, they won’t cover accidents. For two, there are numerous caveats in the fine print:

  • To be covered for repairs, the part or repair in question must be specifically covered in the warranty documentation.
  • No services are covered under this warranty, such as oil changes.
  • If aftermarket parts damage the powertrain, such as a turbocharger or supercharger, the repairs will not be covered.
  • Damage that results from negligence, like if you never change the oil, is not covered.
  • Any issues caused by unreasonable use will not be covered, such as driving through a flooded road.
  • If the odometer has been replaced or is damaged, no repairs will be covered.

That might seem like a ton of fine print. Essentially, do all your maintenance and services at Mazda dealerships, be a responsible owner when it comes to usage and modifications, and your warranty will remain intact. While we’re on the topic of fine print, it pays to learn some auto industry jargon before you visit the dealership.

How long does Mazda’s Certified Pre-Owned Warranty Last?

The limited vehicle warranty, which you could also call a bumper-to-bumper warranty, lasts for 12 months or 12,000 miles. The powertrain warranty lasts for seven years or 100,000 miles; however, those numbers start when the car was initially sold.

One nice aspect of the Mazda warranty is that if the CPO vehicle is still covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty (3-years, 36,000 miles), that warranty remains in effect. Once that warranty expires, then the CPO Limited Vehicle Warranty kicks in. Keep this in mind when shopping for a Mazda certified pre-owned vehicle; the newer, the better.

Both of the warranties they offer on CPO cars are transferable to the new party if you decide to sell your car, too. The warranties increase your resale value should you decide to sell within the warranty’s timeframe.

Mazda’s Certified Pre-Owned Inspection

Mazda certified pre-owned vehicles undergo a 160-point inspection before being certified and receiving the warranties discussed above. You can view more about their assessment in the official CPO brochure, but we’ll go over some of the main points:

  • Frame and exterior, including all lights, confirming that there’s no frame damage and that turn signals work properly
  • Brakes, including all linings and fittings, brake springs, and other braking components
  • Steering, including seals and gaskets, upper and lower ball joints and control arms, gear housing, and linkages
  • Suspension, including the rear axle, spindle and spindle supports, and linkages
  • Electrical, including starter, windshield wiper, alternator, and heated backglass
  • Transmission, including transfer case, seals and gaskets, and torque converter
  • Engine, including timing belt, thermostat, water pump, oil pan, and oil pump

They’ll also perform any required maintenance, such as giving it an oil change before leaving the inspection facility.

Please note that this is different from a pre-purchase inspection, which you should definitely also have done.

Other Mazda Certified Pre-Owned Perks

Mazda has included quite a few perks to tempt people into buying a Mazda certified pre-owned car.

One great perk that Mazda provides is 24/7 emergency roadside assistance for the duration of the seven-year / 100,000 powertrain warranty. Their roadside assistance covers:

  • Gas delivery
  • Towing to an authorized Mazda dealership
  • Flat-tire changes
  • Jump starts
  • Lockout assistance

Every Mazda certified pre-owned car also comes with a complete AutoCheck vehicle history report and three-year buyback protection provided by Experian.

Mazda provides all CPO customers with a 3-month subscription to SiriusXM, too. Not necessary, but something you might appreciate.

It’s worth noting that Mazda does not provide any allowance for a rental car if your vehicle is in for warrantied repairs, unlike some other manufacturers. This is where a third party vehicle service contract could provide additional value to you.

We believe that Mazda certified pre-owned vehicles are thoroughly inspected, fairly warrantied, and the right car can be a great buy (depending on the financial numbers). Buying a certified pre-owned has many advantages over buying a standard used car and should always be a priority.

Dodge Certified Pre-Owned Review

Buying a certified pre-owned vehicle is a great way to have the sticker price of a used car but with all of the same confidence you have when purchasing a new car. You’re guaranteed to receive a car that has undergone a comprehensive inspection to ensure that everything is as it should be and the vehicle is ready to sell.

Compared to buying a used car off of the street, it instills a lot of confidence in the vehicle that you’re buying. We’re about to go into the Dodge certified pre-owned warranty, their inspection process, and other perks you get when you buy a Dodge CPO.

TLDR; We love the length of the powertrain warranty. It’s one of the best in the industry. They also provide some useful perks that every automobile owner will appreciate. We dislike the short bumper-to-bumper warranty, though. The $100 deductible for repairs under warranty is also unreasonable, as many manufacturers do not charge a deductible.

Dodge’s Certified Pre-Owned Warranty Information

To qualify for the inspection process and become a Dodge certified pre-owned vehicle, the automobile must be less than 5 model years old. It also must have less than 75,000 miles.

If a vehicle meets the criteria, then it can be part of the program. After inspection, they are sold with the Dodge certified pre-owned warranty. This warranty covers a variety of issues that stem from manufacturer defects (accidents are not covered). 

What does Dodge’s Certified Pre-Owned Warranty Cover?

Dodge has an interesting philosophy when it comes to their CPO warranty. They want to cover the powertrain for quite some time, but the bumper-to-bumper coverage is extremely short. Let’s take a look:

Bumper-To-Bumper Warranty:

  • Lasts for three years or 3,000 miles (whichever comes first)
  • Covers almost every component in and out of the vehicle
  • Includes electrical issues
  • Transferable to a private party

Powertrain Warranty

  • Lasts for seven years or 100,000 miles (whichever comes first)
  • Covers drivetrain, engine, and transmission
  • Transferable to a private party

One major downside to both warranties is that there is a $100 deductible for covered repairs. Such a deductible is unusual in the industry; most manufacturer warranties have no deductible. Over the life of a vehicle, those $100 deductibles can undoubtedly add up. There’s a lot to know about why warranties are so often sold, and the fees are part of it.

How long does Dodge’s Certified Pre-Owned Warranty Last?

The Dodge certified pre-owned bumper-to-bumper warranty lasts either 3,000 miles or three years, while the powertrain warranty lasts 100,000 miles or seven years.

Our most significant critique of the Dodge certified pre-owned warranty is easily the short length of the bumper-to-bumper warranty. We think 3,000 miles is absurdly low, and someone who drives a relatively average amount could rack that up in just a few months. Think about how often you get an oil change – that’s how long the warranty lasts.

The powertrain warranty even beats the new Dodge vehicles’ warranty by two years (they include a 5-year warranty).

It’s interesting how there’s such a stark contrast between the two Dodge warranties offered in the CPO program. While we’re uncertain about their motivations or philosophy, we do appreciate the extended powertrain warranty. Purchasing a third-party vehicle service contract to “extend” the bumper-to-bumper warranty is not a bad idea when it comes to Dodge CPO vehicles.

Dodge’s Certified Pre-Owned Inspection

Dodge has a 125-point inspection that certifies that the vehicle is in roadworthy condition. They’ll lose money if they approve a car that breaks down a few miles down the road since every CPO vehicle comes with a warranty.

What’s on the inspection list? You can read the full list on their official website, but we’ll go over a few highlights:

  • Under the hood checks, such as hood release, throttle linkage system, and charging system operation
  • Operational checks, such as the airbag system, seat belts, mirror adjustment, and door locks
  • Road test, such as ease of starting, cold-idle quality, and gear selector operation
  • Steering performance, such as power steering, alignment, and tracking performance
  • Equipment operation, such as cruise control and overdrive
  • Powertrain performance, such as acceleration performance, steady throttle performance, and downshifting performance
  • Braking performance, such as vehicle tracking, antilock brake systems, and overall stopping performance.
  • Post-road test, such as hot restart performance, fluid levels check, and fluid leaks
  • Maintenance standards, such as inspecting tire sidewall condition, exhaust system, and brake lining
  • Appearance standards, covering both the interior and exterior, ensuring that the overall appearance is as close to new as possible
  • Detailing standards, including cleaning and touching up the interior and exterior

As you can see, it’s quite a thorough list. However, it’s on par with the inspections performed by other vehicle manufacturers in their certified pre-owned programs. All of the manufacturers try to one-up each other with their inspection list, and over the years, this practice has resulted in most of them being quite similar.

Before you visit the car dealership, make sure you know our tips for first-time car buyers.

Other Dodge Certified Pre-Owned Perks

Many car manufacturers like to throw in extra bonuses with their CPO vehicles, and Dodge isn’t any different. Buying a Dodge with a CPO warranty provides the following perks:

  • 24-hour roadside assistance (flat tire, battery jump, towing, gas delivery, lockout service), up to $100 per occurrence
  • If your car or truck undergoes repairs for covered issues, you’ll receive a rental car coverage of $35 per day, up to $175.
  • As a nice bonus, all Dodge certified pre-owned vehicles include a three-month trial to SiriusXM satellite radio. 

We don’t think the Dodge certified pre-owned warranty is industry-leading by any stretch of the imagination, but the transferability and extended powertrain warranty are certainly highlights. As long as you’re getting a good out-the-door price on it, a pre-owned Dodge is a decent way to go. The inspection alone is why we always suggest going for a certified pre-owned vehicle over a random used car, when at all possible.

When Is the Best Time to Buy a Car?

Knowing when dealers are highly motivated to sell can help you plan your car purchase around the best deals. Our team of Car Coaches has decades of combined experience, and always keeps a pulse on the auto market. There was no debating the best times to buy a car. Let’s dive in.

Is there really a “best time to buy a car?” 

There are plenty of myths and claims about when you can get the best prices on cars. Many of these include specific holidays as well as certain days of the month, specific days of the year, and even exact times of the day. Some of these myths are based on observable trends in the auto industry, so let’s dig into those that hold the most merit.

For starters, it’s commonly understood that Mondays are the slowest day of the week at dealerships. So, if you’re in the market for a car and want to gain the rapt attention of a salesperson looking to make a deal or to meet a quota, consider visiting a dealership at midday on a Monday. 

Another quirky fact is that shopping during poor weather can be an excellent way to get a better deal. This is because poor weather conditions generally deter customers from walking around car lots, and employees are anxious to make a sale for the day or to meet their quotas.

The key word in all of this, though…is quotas.

At the End of the Month

Dealers are assigned sales goals for each month. That means both management and sales staff at dealerships are inclined to offer better deals as their deadline approaches. So, if you visit the dealership on the last business day of the month, it gives you a bit more leverage in the negotiations.

Traditionally, January and February are difficult months for dealers, depending, of course, on other aspects of the economy. This makes it even more likely that a dealer may offer better deals for buyers during this time span. It seems too simple to be true but imagine shopping on Monday at midday during a snowstorm at the end of February. Now, you could be hitting the sweet spot!

At the End of the Quarter

Dealers aren’t the only individuals setting targets. Automotive manufacturers establish end of quarter goals for dealers which means the end of each quarter presents buyers with an opportunity to save some money. As you might expect, these quarters typically end in March, June, September, and December. 

The Overall Best Time to Buy: The End of the Year

The last few days of December represent the absolute best time to buy a car because automotive manufacturers, dealers, and sales staff are highly motivated to achieve year-end sales goals. This motivation to negotiate comes from the fact that dealers get year-end bonuses from manufacturers when annual sales quotas are met.

Factory-to-dealer incentives can add up to a significant amount of income for dealers, so it’s common practice to offer enticements such as discounted prices, significant rebates, and special financing terms to customers as a financial benefit to both the buyer and the dealership.

Best Holidays to Buy a Car 

Using a savings of at least 5% as a worthwhile objective for a customer (which can amount to a savings of over $1,100), research shows that the following holidays have been identified as some of the best days to buy a car. 

  • Martin Luther King Jr. Day
  • Veteran’s Day
  • Thanksgiving
  • Black Friday
  • Christmas Eve
  • New Year’s Eve
  • New Year’s Day

It’s worth noting that the whole week from Christmas to New Year’s is the peak week for deals. In addition to being the holiday season, these days fall during the end-of-month, end-of-quarter, and end-of-year sales quota period for dealers, all of which can add up to great deals for car buyers. 

Negotiating the Best Deal

Obviously, the best time to purchase a vehicle is when you don’t need one, but remember that your finest negotiating strategy, other than choosing the right day and best time to buy a car, is your willingness to walk away without one. 

Print this 100% free car buying cheat sheet and strategy card!

Furthermore, it’s ok to mention that you know about sales quotas set by manufacturers. It’s alright to ask how much closer the dealership wants to get to its monthly, quarterly, or annual sales goals. Tell the manager that for the right price you’re willing to help the dealership get closer to hitting those targets.

Looking for car buying help? The CarEdge Team is ready to help you save thousands, and also to avoid the stress of car buying hassles.

CarEdge Coach is your path to 1:1, personalized help with your car deal.

Prefer a DIY route? Learn more about CarEdge Data‘s unparalleled insights.

Simply want to chat with an expert? Try a CarEdge Consult anytime.

We’re here to help. Remember, learning how to negotiate will save big time!

How to Buy a Car with No Credit (or Bad Credit)

Having bad credit, or no credit, and wanting to buy a car is not impossible. Depending on the rest of your financial situation, you can absolutely learn how to buy a car with no credit.

We’ll be focusing on the no credit or bad credit aspects of car buying in this article. For more comprehensive advice on car buying, please look over our in-depth case study that covers the general concepts involved in buying a car

Are you ready to learn how to buy a car with no credit, or with bad credit? Let’s get started by really nailing down the definition of these terms.

What is “No Credit” and How to Buy a Car with No Credit

No credit means you have no credit history. You have no credit profile because you’ve never established any sort of credit history. As far as the banks and lenders are concerned, you don’t exist.

Yet, here you are, trying to buy a car. You definitely exist. What do you do?

You’ll need to save up and put a ton of cash down. You’ll also need to have all your paperwork in order, along with having plenty of quality references. Keep reading – we’re about to cover all of this in detail.

What is “Bad Credit” and How Does it Impact Buying a Car?

Whereas no credit means you simply don’t have a credit history, bad credit means you do have a credit history, and it’s not good.

Bad credit, which is officially known as subprime, is a credit score that’s between 500 and 600. If you’re below 500, that’s considered super subprime and would also fit within the ‘bad credit’ label.

Having bad credit indicates to any potential lenders that you have not handled past loan obligations well. You might have taken out an auto loan and failed to make payments, or you took out a few credit cards and let them go into collections.

Either way, now you’re in a situation where it’s hard for finance managers at dealerships to convince lenders to approve you for a loan.

If your credit score is over 500, you might be able to find a lender who will loan 90% of the value of the car. That leaves you to cover 10%. If your score is below 500, they might cover 75% of the car, leaving you with 25%.

This means that you should start saving because you’re going to be expected to put more money down than someone with a higher credit score.

It’s worth noting that you should avoid visiting multiple dealerships to get approved by a lender. Doing so can harm your credit score by stacking up hard inquiries. In theory, when shopping for a similar item (a car) over 30 days, it counts as one credit inquiry. However, it’s truly unclear how the credit bureaus interpret multiple inquiries for subprime candidates.. Avoid multiple dealerships if at all possible and work with one or two.

Be realistic about the cars you are looking at. A bad credit score will decrease your buying power substantially, even if you are putting a good amount of cash down. Consider buying a certified pre-owned vehicle to get the most value out of your buying power.

Lastly, be ready to have a higher APR than what’s being advertised. For people with a subprime credit score, the average rate for a new car is 12.15%, and for a used car it’s 16.78%.

How to Buy a Car with No Credit: Put A Lot of Cash Down

If you’re looking into how to buy a car with no credit, your first plan of action is to save up as much cash as possible. The more cash you’re able to put down, the better.

If you’re looking at a $10,000 car and you have $3,000 down, the finance manager has a great argument with the lender about why they should approve someone with no or bad credit: you don’t want to lose $3,000.

Conversely, if you have $300, the argument falls flat.

People who investigate how to buy a car with no credit often end up going to “buy here, pay here” car lots. Be warned, those types of places will require even more cash down than most dealerships. Essentially, the cash down amount that they require will cover their investment in the car. That way, if you stop paying the loan, at least they got out what they paid for the car.

Sidenote: If you’re going to work with a “buy here, pay here” lot, make sure they report your loan to credit bureaus.

Get Your Paperwork in Order

Before you even visit the dealership, get all your paperwork in order. Anyone wanting to know how to buy a car with no credit should know that you’re going to have to prove that you have a job and stable personal finances. You should prepare:

  • Several months of pay stubs that back up your income claim
  • Utility bills that show your address
  • Signed lease in your name, if renting
  • 6-10 references, including names, addresses, and phone numbers of people who know you personally or professionally

All of this paperwork forms a well-rounded image of who you are, financially speaking. It helps lenders approve your request, even if you have no or bad credit.

Become a Member of Your Local Credit Union

Another way to go is to look for financing options outside of the dealership.

Joining a credit union is the best thing you can do if you’re looking at how to buy a car with no credit and want to look outside of the dealership for options. That’s because credit unions look at members with a more favorable eye than other lenders. You might be able to secure an auto loan with more favorable interest rates than if you went to the dealer, too.

Credit unions are easy to join. There are all types of credit unions, look for one in your area, and join up.

Can You Buy A Car with No or Bad Credit? Yes!

You’ve now learned that if you’re looking at how to buy a car with no credit, or bad credit, you still have options. Your lack of a credit profile, or your bad credit profile, doesn’t prevent you from owning a vehicle.

Save up for a large down payment, bring all your paperwork, and be ready to have a higher APR than advertised. You’ll be able to drive away from the lot happy.

How to Sell Your Car (And Get the Most Money Possible)

Updated 9/29/21

Knowing how to sell your car for the most money possible has never been more important. In 2021 we’ve seen used car prices appreciate nearly 30%, which means the car (or truck, or SUV) in your driveway is worth way more than when you originally bought it. What a time to be alive!

If you decide that it’s time to sell your car, there are a few things we recommend you do to make the most money possible. Right now, with new car inventory at all-time lows, car dealers, consumers, and everyone in between will be interested in your used car for sale. To maximize your profits we have a few suggestions.

Let’s explore how you can sell your car and address some common questions, like “Should I get my car detailed before I sell it?” “Should I sell private party or to a dealer?” And, “How much is my car really worth?” Let’s dive in.

Sell Your Car to Carvana, Vroom, CarMax, or Shift

National online used car dealers like Carvana, Vroom, CarMax, and Shift have been growing in recent years. These companies are publicly traded and focused heavily on growth. Because of this, digital retailers are always purchasing more vehicles in order to continuously expand their inventory.

To sell your car for the highest price possible we recommend you start by getting free online quotes from these four major players. Their business models rely on them having vehicles to sell, and because of that they have made it very simple to sell them your car online. Getting a quote from Carvana takes less than five minutes and only requires your VIN and the current odometer reading.

Carvana, Vroom, CarMax, and Shift vary their prices by geographic region. We recommend you get quotes from each company to see who is offering the highest price right now. Each company wants a different “mix” of inventory and one of them will want your car the most.

Click here to get a Carvana quote: https://www.carvana.com/sell-my-car

Click here to get a Vroom quote: https://www.vroom.com/sell

Click here to get a CarMax quote: https://www.carmax.com/sell-my-car

Click here to get a Shift quote: https://shift.com/sell-my-car

From our experience, we’ve seen that Carvana and Vroom will typically pay the highest price for newer used vehicles. CarMax typically pays the most for older used vehicles. Shift occasionally tops them all.

Bear in mind that Vroom has recently been admonished by the Better Business Bureau, so if the quote you get from Carvana is within a few hundred dollars of your price from Vroom, you may simply want to go to Carvana.

Sell Your Car to Your Local Car Dealers

Car dealers are notoroius for “lowballing” your trade-in. Well, in today’s market you are the one in control, and we recommend you give your local dealers a chance to buy your car from you.

Car dealerships are rapidly running out of inventory, and with Carvana, Vroom, Shift, and CarMax spending a lot of money to buy cars directly from consumers, local car dealers know they need to pony up some serious cash to do the same.

We recommend that you contact all of your local dealerships and share with them the quotes you received from the online digital used car dealers. To sell your car for the most money possible, you need leverage, and with online cash quotes, you have that.

If a dealership is willing to beat the price quote you have, that’s great! Your next concern is likely “will they change the price when I come in and they inspect the vehicle?” To mitigate issues there, watch this video on how car dealers appraise cars, and make them aware of any issues in advance.

We have heard a few horror stories from the online used car dealers that they revise their prices lower once they have inspected a vehicle, so the best thing you can do with them, or with your local dealer is to pre-empt that by telling them about any damage or issues.

Sell Your Car to a Private Buyer

After going through the prior two steps, if you are willing to invest more time in the process you’ll likely be able to sell your car for the most money possible to a private buyer. Unlike selling to a dealership, selling to a private party takes a bit more work, however an interested private buyer will likely pay even more than the dealership, because they know that if they don’t buy it from you, they’ll have to buy it at a marked up price from the dealership.

What price should I list my vehicle at?

Thankfully, the work you did in the steps before (getting quotes from dealerships) will inform your asking price. We recommend you take the highest offer you received from one of the car dealers and add 10% on top of it. That is a fair listing price for a private party sale.

Why 10%? It’s simple:

  • The dealership is likely going to sell the vehicle for much more than 10% than what they are buying it from you for, so it’s a reasonable price for a private party to expect
  • When negotiating with a private party they’ll likely want to haggle, and with 10% of extra “profit” built in, you have some room left to negotiate and haggle

Where should I advertise my vehicle for sale?

Advertising a vehicle for sale right now has never been easier. There is A LOT of fraud on peer to peer websites, however. We recommend listing your vehicle on the classic websites: Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist.

In this market you will likely be receiving many inquires immediately.

Should I detail my car before selling it?

If you’re selling your car to a private buyer we recommend you clean and detail it. If you are selling to a dealership there is no need to get the vehicle detailed, however it is a good idea to get the vehicle looking clean and like it has been well maintained.

CarFax Reports and Pre-Purchase Inspections

If you’re selling a vehicle to a private buyer do not be surprised if they ask to see a CarFax report and to get a pre-purchase inspection.

  • CarFaxAll serious buyers will want to view a detailed vehicle history for the car. This helps them determine if your car is a good investment. Be sure to have this ready, whether you are contacting an online retailer, visiting a local dealer, or finding a private buyer. We recommend you pay for this and have it ready to share with prospective buyers.
  • Pre-Purchase InspectionA serious prospective buyer will want to conduct a pre-purchase inspection. Be prepared for that and not surprised. We don’t recommend you preemptively get a pre-purchase inspection, because buyers will want their own mechanic to review the vehicle.

When considering how to sell your car, be prepared to accommodate a PPI and have a vehicle history ready for potential purchasers to review.

What Do I Need to Sell My Car?

Great, so you know how much your car is worth and you’re ready to sell it. You likely now wondering, “So what exactly do I need to sell my car?” 

The following items will be useful in making your sales experience as smooth as possible:

  • A driver’s license or other official identification
  • The vehicle’s title
  • The vehicle’s registration
  • Ten-day loan payoff (if you have a loan on the vehicle)
  • All sets of keys for the vehicle (at least two)
  • All maintenance and vehicle service records

If you’re selling to a dealership your experience will be pretty simple … Arrive, sign off on a variety of paperwork that allows the dealership to handle motor vehicle paperwork on your behalf, get your check, and leave.

If you’re selling to a private party it will look a little different.

Here are a few pointers:

  • Never allow the potential buyer to test drive the vehicle by themself. Always accompany the potential buyer on the test drive and have your friend tag along as well.
  • Establish the test drive route prior to leaving and set the ground rules for how the vehicle is allowed to be driven. The driver must obey all traffic safety rules and stay within the posted speed limit at all times.
  • Once you have agreed to sell the vehicle, complete the transaction at your bank, credit union, motor vehicle agency or local police station to protect all parties from any issues. Be certain to make sure that buyer’s funds are indeed good prior to releasing any paperwork or keys to the vehicle. 
  • Do not allow the buyer to drive off using your tags and registration.