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Car dealers catch a lot of flack. The annual trustworthiness of professions poll from Gallup ranks car salespeople at the bottom of the list. To suggest that car people aren’t held in high regard would be an understatement. It doesn’t help when car dealerships engage in the practice of title washing and other consumer unfriendly practices. All too often we see a story on the evening news that reminds us of why car dealers are often considered the “scum of the earth.”
Having been in the car business for 43 years, I know that not all car people are bad people. Actually (and this may come as a surprise), most car people I know are good, decent, and humane individuals (far from the characterization they receive at work). However, as with all things in life, a few bad apples can ruin the bunch, and the same holds true for car dealers.
Recently I came across a news story out of Georgia that told the journey of a fateful 2015 Toyota 4-runner that was sold 7 times over the span of 5 years in 5 different states; each time with a clean title. The kicker is, the car didn’t have side airbags in it. How could it possibly have been sold 7 times in 5 different states (each with a clean title) even though the car didn’t have side airbags? The answer: title washing.
Washing a vehicle title is the process of taking a total loss vehicle (when it would cost more than a car is worth to repair it) and physically moving it to another state where the title can be recognized as “clean,” instead of salvaged or branded. When a vehicle sustains severe damage, insurance companies are required to update the status of the vehicle’s title to reflect its condition, however, each state has different requirements for what must be reported, and to whom.
For example, Texas state law allows vehicles that have been in an accident to retain a clean title without proof that critical safety repairs have been fixed. In the case of our 2015 4-runner from Georgia, the side airbags had never been replaced, however the vehicle was sold with a clean Texas title at a Progressive Insurance vehicle auction. It was then transported to Georgia where it was bought and sold multiple times to unsuspecting dealers and buyers.
Title washing is unfortunately all too common in the car business. Since each state has different legal requirements for what information (and how much information) must be reported to the local government we end up with situations where nefarious people can take advantage of loopholes across state borders.
Title washing is a federal crime, however enforcement of this law is few and far between. A quick google search of “title washing crime” returns many results, but it quickly becomes clear that enforcing title washing laws across all 50 states is a task too large for any existing federal government agency. State governments are then tasked with enforcing these laws, however many are lax in their pursuit of title washers.
With one out of 44.6 cars having a washed title, the state of Mississippi has the worst title washing problem in the country. Siloed databases, different definitions of “salvage” or “branded” title, and myriad other reasons explain why Mississippi (and many other states) face major challenges from title washing.
The unfortunate thing about title washing is that frequently many people in the buying process have been fooled by what they thought was a clean title vehicle. For example the story of our 2015 Toyota 4-runner in Georgia was initially sold to a dealer that did not know it had previous accident history and was missing airbags.
The owner of the first dealership that sold the vehicle to a consumer ended up refunding the customer once the customer learned that the vehicle didn’t have side airbags (something their mechanic) was able to uncover.
This simply goes to show that you have to be your own advocate during the car buying process and you can’t assume that anyone is looking out for your best interests. It’s an unfortunate reality, but it’s the truth, and it’s especially true when considering the purchase of a used vehicle.
Buying a used car is a bit like gambling. You’re making a bet that the car you are buying is in good mechanical condition and won’t turn into a clunker overnight. How can you increase your odds of making a good bet? It’s easy; get a pre-purchase inspection done before buying any used car.
A pre-purchase inspection is non-negotiable when purchasing a used car. It’s unfortunate that there is no other way to protect yourself from accidentally purchasing a vehicle with a washed title, but the best thing you can do is take proactive steps to minimize the risk.
In addition to an inspection (which we really think is a must if you are purchasing a used vehicle) you can (and should) also refer to the vehicle’s Carfax or AutoCheck report. Bear in mind that Carfax and AutoCheck reports are only as accurate as the information they receive, however they may indicate that a vehicle has had a previous accident, and if it does, that can be an indication to you that the vehicle is not worth purchasing.
Another option that we strongly recommend you consider is contacting your insurance company and asking them if they have any records on the vehicle you are considering. You will need to share with them the VIN, and they should be able to provide you with even more information than the Carfax report.
The Securities and Exchange Commission recently announced $18M in fines that BMW and two of their subsidiaries must pay for having provided misleading and inaccurate retail sales information to their investors.
The SEC report reads:
According to the SEC’s order, from 2015 to 2019, BMW inflated its reported retail sales in the U.S., which helped BMW close the gap between its actual retail sales volume and internal targets and publicly maintain a leading retail sales position relative to other premium automotive companies. The order finds that BMW of North America LLC (BMW NA) maintained a reserve of unreported retail vehicle sales — referred to internally as the “bank” — that it used to meet internal monthly sales targets without regard to when the underlying sales occurred. The order also finds that BMW NA paid dealers to inaccurately designate vehicles as demonstrators or loaners so that BMW would count them as having been sold to customers when they had not been. Additionally, the order finds that BMW NA improperly adjusted its retail sales reporting calendar in 2015 and 2017 to meet internal sales targets or bank excess retail sales for future use. As a result, according to the order, the information that BMW provided to investors in the bond offerings by BMW’s U.S. financing subsidiary, BMW US Capital LLC, and to credit rating agencies contained material misstatements and omissions regarding BMW’s U.S. retail vehicle sales.
https://www.sec.gov/news/press-release/2020-223
After having spent 43 years in the car business (many of which with BMW North America), I can unequivocally say these practices are routine and commonplace within car dealerships. Fraudulent behavior like this is not limited to BMW. Every manufacturer I have ever worked for encourages this.
When I worked for Penske Automotive Group we were explicitly instructed not to fudge any numbers. If our BMW rep asked us to “pad the numbers” one month, we didn’t. Penske didn’t want to participate in that type of activity. They were the exception to the rule.
As a dealer you have very little choice but to “play the game.” As I’ve talked about in other videos and guides here on the blog, car dealers don’t make much of anything when they sell vehicles. Instead, they make their money from factory incentives and from selling finance and insurance products.
With that in mind, it’s clear why dealers “play the game.” If you have a $250,000 incentive that is based on the number of cars you sell in any given month, and the person writing you that check (BMW) is encouraging you to “fake” sales so that you can actually attain the bonus, what would you do? The answer is simple.
Car manufacturers are happy to pay out giant monthly bonuses to subsidize their dealers, but only if they hit certain sales volume thresholds. This is because manufacturers are then able to report better than expected sales volumes to their investors.
How many fraudulently reported vehicles are “sold” in any given month? In any given month we would designate 15 Mini Coopers as “sold,” even though they hadn’t been. In that same month we may have actually sold 35 or 40 vehicles. Each month, upwards of 20% of our “sales” were fake.
It’s surprising to think that BMW was only fined $18M. Considering a nontrivial amount of their sold inventory is not actually sold, you would think the fine should be $180M instead of $18M.
Fiat Chrysler paid $40M in fines a few years ago for similar practices. Regardless of who it is, it’s clear that the fines aren’t enough to stop the fraudulent behavior.
We all know that buying a car is harder than it needs to be. From the prolonged sales process to the trip to the “back office” for financing and warranty sales, buying a car certainly isn’t as fun as you’d think the second largest purchase of your life should be.
Fortunately for us there are a handful of people out there who recognize this terribly unpleasant process and took action to make it better. I’m referring to one-price, or negotiation-free car dealers like CarMax, Carvana, and others. The premise of negotiation-free car dealerships is in the name; the price is the price, there are no gimmicks, no haggling, no bartering, no headache.
A lot of people like buying a car from a one-price car dealer. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out why. The experience is simply more pleasant and less aggravating than going to a traditional car dealer. There is one downside though, you can’t negotiate!
It may sound paradoxical, but one of the biggest frustrations when buying from a negotiation free car dealer is that you can’t get them to lower their selling price of the car. It may come as a surprise, but you actually can negotiate at a negotiation free car dealership, the trick is what you are negotiating on. Interested to learn more? Let’s dive into how you can negotiate at CarMax, Carvana, and any other negotiation free car dealership!
Go ahead and re-read that title … Yes, it is true, most car dealerships don’t make their money selling cars. Instead, they make most of their profits from fixed operations (parts and service), as well as when they sell finance and insurance products.
Specifically, dealers make money when they originate the loan you use to purchase your vehicle. Dealers also make a healthy margin when you purchase a vehicle service contract or GAP insurance. The sale of a car is simply a means to an end for a lot of car dealers.
For example, Carvana, one of the largest used car dealers in the United States makes more than 50% of their gross profit per vehicle sold on the “back-end” of the car deal; the sale of loans, extended warranties, and more.
One price car dealerships do make money selling their inventory, and if you buy a car from one of them, you will be buying at a bit above market value. That’s simply the reality of purchasing from a negotiation free dealership.
If you buy a car from CarMax, it is true that you cannot negotiate the price of the actual vehicle, however, where you can negotiate at CarMax (and Carvana, et al) is on the back-end of the deal.
CarMax also has a ‘Love Your Car’ Guarantee. For a full review of that program, click here: https://caredge.com/guides/carmax-love-your-car-guarantee/
We gather the BEST new car offers every month. See this month’s list here!
Do dealers want you to negotiate on the interest rate of the loan they secure on your behalf? No. Should you negotiate the interest rate on the loan they secure on your behalf? YES!
When you buy a car from a dealership and require financing for your purchase, you have a few options for how to secure a loan. You may be tempted to secure a loan through the dealership. When a dealer provides you with financing options you need to understand that the dealer is profiting from this.
Car dealers place a lot more loans than any individual would. Because of this, they are able to work with their financial partners to secure lower interest rates on loans. When you fill out a credit application at a dealership the dealer circulates your application to multiple lenders and receives many quotes for what you qualify for. The dealer will then present to you options that are marked up from what they received from their lending partners.
For example, if you qualify for a 3% interest rate loan, the dealer may present to you a 5% interest rate loan as your best option. Why would the dealer do that if you were approved for 3%? Because the dealer is able to pocket the difference. This has been going on for decades, and this is one of the primary revenue channels for car dealers, especially one-price dealerships.
What does this mean for you? Two things:
This is the first area in a negotiation free car dealership that you can negotiate.For example you can negotiate at CarMax when you’re presented with an interest rate of 6% and you know you can qualify for something better. Don’t agree to 6%. The dealer will not want to lose a car deal simply because you won’t agree to their marked up interest rate. Even in negotiation free car dealerships this is negotiable.
Thinking about buying an extended warranty? Get a free quote from CarEdge first!
What do you do when your salesperson tells you that for only $10 more per month you can get an extended warranty on that 2017 BMW X3? You sign the dotted line, don’t you? Not so fast … This is yet another area within a one-price dealership that is actually negotiable.
Don’t be swayed by sales tactics that make it seem like you’re getting a “great deal” when you add a $2,500 extended warranty onto your purchase, “but Mary, it only increases your monthly payment a few bucks each month.”
The reality is, extended warranty sales, GAP insurance, tire and wheel protection, and any other insurance product you can buy after you purchase your vehicle are all negotiable. These products are generally marked up 200-300%. Yes, you read that right, 200-300%. That means the $2,500 extended warranty you are “tacking on” to your loan might only cost the dealer $700-$800.
Not only are insurance products negotiable at a one-price car dealership, you should also consider buying them from a different provider. Shopping extended warranties at other dealers or directly from providers is a wise move. But at a minimum, be sure to negotiate at CarMax, Carvana, etc, when you think about purchasing an extended warranty or other insurance product.
Last but not least, you can always negotiate the selling price of your trade-in (if you’re in a position to sell your current vehicle). One price dealers are constantly looking to secure new inventory so that they can sell more cars (to ultimately sell more loans and more extended warranties), and nine times out of ten, they’d prefer to buy a car directly from you rather than from an auction.
Buying vehicles from the auction entail many other expenses, so generally speaking, it’s more profitable to purchase vehicles directly from consumers. Keep this in mind if you’re purchasing from a CarMax, Carvana, or somewhere similar. You can and should negotiate the best selling price for your car before agreeing to what you are initially offered.
Is online car buying too good to be true? Carvana and Vroom have been subject to controversy in 2024. Vroom is under investigation in Texas, and Carvana is all over the news for failing to transfer car titles, selling vehicles in horrible condition, and more.
Carvana Lawsuit: Can You Trust Them?
Before you give online car retailers your business, it’s wise to be informed about the latest lawsuits and license revocations that could impact your own buying experience. This is a developing situation, we’ll update this page when we know more.

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As if buying a car wasn’t difficult enough, buying a car on craigslist, eBay, or from any private party ads an additional layer of complexity. Knowing you are buying a car that is reliable and safe is one concern. Making sure you get a fair price is yet another. At the end of the day, buying a car private-party poses many of the same challenges you experience when purchasing from a dealer, and then some!
That’s why we decided to take the time to draft this guide to buying a car on craigslist (or similar peer to peer websites). The last thing you want to do is get taken advantage of, and by reading through this guide, you’ll be more prepared as you navigate your buying process.
Without further ado, let’s dive in! And, as always, if you’d prefer to watch instead of read, you can click “play” on the video up above.
It may come as a surprise, but the first thing you need to confirm is that the seller of the vehicle is actually the owner of the vehicle. Yes, people sell cars without owning them, and when they inevitably get caught, you’ll be the one who no longer has a car. That “great deal” you see on craigslist? Yeah, there’s a chance that’s because the person selling it isn’t actually the person who owns it!
I’d sell a car cheaply (and quickly) if I wasn’t the actual owner of it! Sure, when you buy a car from a car dealership you don’t have to worry about confirming that the name on the title of the vehicle matches the person selling it to you, but when you purchase from a private party, you certainly do.
How can you confirm that the seller of the vehicle is the true owner of the vehicle? Simply ask for a copy of the vehicle title and a copy of the seller’s driver’s license. The two names should match. If the title is in someone else’s name but they have “signed off” on the back of the title, that isn’t good enough. The current owner needs to take the signed off title to the state and get a new title in their name.
Once the vehicle title and the seller’s identification match, you can purchase the vehicle without hesitation.
Let’s say the car you’re interested in is being sold lawfully by the current owner. Great, now what? The first thing I would recommend is that you call your insurance company and tell them you are interested in purchasing a vehicle, and that you were wondering if they could run the VIN to see what history they are able to pull on it.
Insurance companies are in the business of maximizing their profits, and one way they do that is by keeping track of every vehicle on the road to make sure they are able to charge a fair price to insure it. That being said, insurance companies have access to much more robust systems than you and I, and as a customer, you are well within your right to call them and ask for their help in assessing the history of a vehicle.
Of course you can also check the Carfax on the vehicle, however, as we have discussed in recent videos on YouTube, a vehicle’s Carfax is only as good as the information Carfax was able to receive. At the end of the day, a vehicle’s Carfax is not entirely accurate, and frequently key service and repair records will not be available on the report. Carfax reports are also not “realtime,” meaning that there are sometimes serious delays in when an event happens, and when it ultimately appears on the Carfax report.
Our recommendation is that you work with your insurance company to get their full history report on a VIN before purchasing a Carfax or AutoCheck report. However, what is most important to understand is that you need to get some VIN history on the vehicle before purchasing it.
The history of a vehicle is critically important, however, there is something that is even more necessary for you to consider before buying a car on craigslist or a similar peer-to-peer website; a pre-purchase inspection.
Buying a used car is a crapshoot. Whether you’re buying a used car on craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, or from the local car dealership, you really don’t know what you’re getting yourself into. As I like to say, “no two used cars are the same.”
With that in mind, the worst thing you can do is blindly purchase a used car without ever having a qualified mechanic look it over. Buying a used car without a pre-purchase inspection is like buying a house without a home inspection. You just don’t do it.
This is especially true when buying a car from a private party. What warranty does the individual selling the car have to you? None! If they sell you a piece of junk, and you don’t realize it, there are very few repercussions for them. At least when you buy from a dealership you can go to the Better Business Bureau and leave online reviews. When you buy a car on craigslist and it turns out to be a clunker, what can you do? Not much.
This is why getting a pre-purchase inspection is an absolute necessity. Read our full guide to pre-purchase inspections here.
Last but not least, make sure you negotiate a fair price for the car you are buying. Sometimes people think that just because they are purchasing a car from a private party, they can’t negotiate on the price. This couldn’t be further from the truth.
Cars, trucks, and SUVs are some of the few commodities that we negotiate on in the United States. Just because you are dealing with a private party, and not a dealership, doesn’t mean you can’t, or shouldn’t negotiate on price.
If your mechanic notices worn brake pads, or the need for new tires during the pre-purchase inspection, be sure to use that as negotiating leverage. Also, do your research on local market conditions for similar vehicles. The CarEdge Market Price Report should be helpful for you to see what other similar cars are selling for.
If you haven’t already, I highly recommend you enroll in Deal School to learn more about how to specifically negotiate a fair car deal.
As if buying a car wasn’t tricky enough, the equation becomes even more complex when the topic of your trade-in comes into play. If you’re like one of the millions of car buyers each year that trades-in their car at the time of purchase, you’re most likely wondering, “when do I bring up the trade-in during the negotiation process so that I get the best deal?”
Well, fortunately for you, we’re going to discuss when to bring up your trade-in (and more) today. If you’re less interested in reading about how to navigate your trade-in, you can watch the YouTube video above. If you prefer to read, then continue on below, over the next few minutes we’ll explain exactly how to approach your trade-in during the car buying process.
Without further ado, let’s dive in!
First and foremost you need to recognize that buying a car and trading-in a car are two separate transactions, and each should be treated as such. Negotiating a car purchase, and selling your existing vehicle are independent of each other, however dealers will diligently try to combine the two into one “deal.” Why? Because when you’re working two transactions at once there are more opportunities to generate profits (if you’re a dealer), and lose focus (if you’re the consumer).
Why should you approach the trade-in process and the negotiation of a vehicle purchase as two separate events? It’s simple, by focusing on selling your car for the greatest amount of money possible, you’ll sell your car for more, and by focusing on negotiating the best possible out-the-door price on the vehicle you’re purchasing, you’ll get the best deal possible. Attempting to combine the two simply muddies the waters and allows the dealer the opportunity to “pull a fast one” on you.
Since your purchase and your trade-in are two separate transactions, you should turn your focus to negotiating the best possible out-the-door price. If you’re unfamiliar with the term “out-the-door price” then I highly suggest you read our guide here, or listen to this podcast episode on out-the-door price (or watch the video above). We created a 100% free out-the-door price calculator that you can access at any time as well to get an estimate for what the OTD price will be on any car you’re interested in.
To negotiate the best out-the-door price you’ll want to follow all of the best practices in the resources above, as well as what we outline in Deal School. For example, if you know how long a vehicle has been on a dealer’s lot, what the local market days supply is, and more, you’ll be able to negotiate a better out-the-door price.
Once you have agreed to terms with the dealer on the vehicle’s total price, you should then transition the conversation to your trade-in, and here’s how to approach that …
My recommendation is simple: get as many competitive quotes for your trade-in as possible before engaging with the dealer. For example, you should get a quote from CarEdge, and any other applicable major used car dealers in your area before discussing your trade-in with the dealer you are going to buy the car from.

It is important to understand that most car dealers will lowball you on their initial trade-in offer. This should come as no surprise. Dealerships are incentivized to purchase your vehicle for as little as possible so that when they sell it to another car buyer they maximize their profit. Your objective is the opposite. You want the greatest amount possible when you sell your vehicle, and the only way you’ll get that is if you get multiple quotes from a handful of dealers in your area.
Another option worth considering is also selling your car to a private party, however if you’re objective is to trade-in the vehicle (and there are financial reasons why you’d want to do this), then getting offers from private parties won’t really help your cause. The point of getting multiple quotes from other dealers is to have leverage with the dealer where you are purchasing your new vehicle, and a verbal offer from a private party isn’t much of a negotiating chip.
Once you have these quotes you can move on to the next phase of the negotiation process.
At this point it’s clear that the trade-in of your existing vehicle, and the negotiation of the new vehicle you are purchasing are two separate events. First you should negotiate a fair out-the-door price, and then bring up competitive quotes from other dealers to purchase your car.
Now, let’s say the dealer makes a compelling offer, but they don’t match the highest offer you’ve received from another dealer. What do you do? Which offer do you take? You need to understand the sales tax benefit of trading a car in versus selling it.
The trade-in sales tax benefit is different in each state, so please double-check with your local tax codes before signing any documents, however in the state of California, the District of Columbia, Hawaii, Kentucky, Michigan, Montana, Oregon, and Virginia there is no sales-tax benefit from trading in your vehicle.
Update for 2022: In Michigan, you can reduce the taxable value of your new car by up to $8,000 and reduce your sales tax by up to $480.
Update for 2022: In Arkansas you can sell your vehicle private party and still retain a sales tax basis benefit.
This means that if you trade-in your vehicle you will not receive any sales tax credit applied to the purchase of your next vehicle. In all other states (again double-check with your local tax codes) you receive a sales tax credit applied to the price of the new vehicle you are purchasing.
For example:
In this scenario it would make more sense to trade-in your vehicle so long as the dealer is offering you an amount that is within $1,200 of your highest direct-sale offer.